Brogue

Brogue is the generic term for a certain group of shoe models, which are characterised by hole ornaments of the shank (shank partial edges and Vorderkappe).

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historical

Brogues going on the Hirten into Scotland and Ireland back, into its shoes the holes bored themselves over in the Sumpfgebieten into the shoes penetrated water again flow off to let. This technology became later over the hunters the Scottish aristocracy generally societyable.

variants

Semibrogue (Grenson)

the today's Brogues are not provided no more with continuous holes. Instead the additionally put on outside shank parts are provided with a hole ornament (Broguing). One differentiates the group of the Brogues with respect to

  • helping or Semibrogue
with these shoe models is only from the outside additionally the Vorderkappe put on on the shank (transverse cap so mentioned) with a orgnamentalen hole line ornament, which Rosette so mentioned and the edge of the Vorderkappe provides frequently with a Lyralochung. Otherwise this model with ornaments is very reserved; other shank partial edges are verziert rarely (punching or indentation). Halfbrogues are manufactured mostly from smooth calf leather.
Fullbrogue (Grenson)
  • Fullbrogue
this shoe model has a wing cap in such a way specified (see illustration) instead of a straight Vorderkappe (transverse cap), which is enough up to the side of the shank. Both the edges wing cap and the other shank partial edges are provided and/or jagged with a Lyralochung. Central on the top side of the wing cap, above the shoe point a Rosette is attached as hole ornament. Typically for Fullbrogues is also a put on heel cap. Fullbrogues are manufactured mostly with coined/shaped Scotchgrain upper leather.
  • Longwing
of the Longwing has a wing cap, whose lateral Ausläufer (the wings) is enough until in the back to the heel seam. Therefore it has also no additionally put on heel cap. Otherwise apply the characteristics of the Fullbrogues, whose North American variant it represents.

Helping and Fullbrogues give it both with open Schnürung (Derbytyp) or closed Schnürung (Oxfordtyp); the Longwing is always built with open Schnürung (Blüchertyp).

use

with hole ornaments (Broguings) provided shoes are mostly gentleman shoes. The Halfbrogue is still combinable to the business suit. The Fullbrogue is considered however rather as sporty shoe and therefore rather with sporty combinations or (in particular in brown color and rougher or rauen upper leathers) to the leisure clothes is carried. Sporty seeming is particularly strongly pronounced with the Longwing, why this is not combined with Businesskleidung, but the leisure clothes is reserved.

literature

  • Helge Sternke: Everything over gentleman Mr., Nicolai publishing house, Berlin, 2006, 560 S., 450 fig., ISBN 3-89479-252-3.

see also

Broguing, shoe model, shoe

 

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