Paul Gavarni: Paris Dandy

the term Dandy came in the middle 18. to beginning 19. Century up and intelligent etymologischem encyclopedia designatesyoung people after Friedrich, which visit church or fair in remarkable clothing”.

Famous representatives were Beau Nash, Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, lord Byron, the prince Hermann of Pückler Muskau, Benjamin Disraeli, later also the representatives of the Ästhetizismus such as OSCAR savage, James McNeill Whistler and max of Beerbohm. One the most well-known Dandys 20. Century was the Prince OF Wales (briefKing Edward VIII.), later duke of Windsor. Also the US-American writer Tom wolf appears with his typical white Anzügen as modern Dandy.

Contrary to the Maccaroni, which tries the fashion of the southern countries to copy, to the Beau or to the German counterpart, the Stutzer, the Dandy abhors all sharp one, sounds, Parfümierte. It is only rarely a Snob (= sine nobilitate, newenrich), which seeks to whitewash the missing family tree with (tasteless) splendor. It cultivates its clothes around the art will (l'art pour l'art). At any time fittingelegant clothes to the pastime combined with form-completed manners of a Gentleman are raised for the only life purpose. The valleys of arduous acquisition work do not fit however the genuine Dandy.

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in 18. Those leaned centuryEnglishman the French yard culture increasingly off. The new body consciousness, which developed by the occupation with antique plastics, found its conversion in the Schneiderei. These influences let develop the modern gentleman suit, that body near cut the v silhouette of the man emphasized and usually from firmMaterial in covered colors existed and until today exists.

This suit was driven by the first famous Dandy Beau Brummell on the point, to which as first representatives of the Dandytums is considered. It publicised already the new Schlichtheit, when noble circles still completely followed the höfischen French fashion.Many legends climb around its person. So it is its gloves always from two different manufacturers manufactured to have, one for the thumbs, the controlled it particularly well, another for the remainder. It had three Frisöre: One for the forehead, one forthe sides and one for the back of the head (the Perücke the mode went) with its influence out of. It changed, against the customs of its time, several times daily its laundry, it despised decoration and perfume. One did not see this expenditure, which he drove, on thatfirst view, the more argwöhnischer he was regarded by contemporaries. It ended in the lunatic asylum in Caen, after it spent its inherited fortune, and by creditors one pursued. Anecdotes and essays are with Beau Brummell, Charles Baudelaire, prince Hermann of Pückler Muskau, max of Beerbohm and Virginia Woolf delivers.

OSCAR savage, max of Beerbohm, Aubrey Beardsley and other representatives of the Ästhetizismus publicised 19 toward end. Century a new style: Samtene knee trousers and the west, down-lying shirt collars and large sunflowers became their outward characteristics. They opened from civil tightnessand of the moralism coined/shaped viktorianische society for a new Sinnlichkeit in colors and forms. Thus also they represented a ritualisierte aesthetics and were directed against the dominant Mainstream.

Many Dandys were artists, writers or essayists and represented their style also literarily. Dandyismus is a life attitude, to which self production, Schlagfertigkeit as well as a rather ungezwungenes relationship to the money (many had gambling debts) to belong. The independence from civil obligations is likewise important such as occupation of bread or marriage (with it a tendency is connected to the Homosexualität).

The Dandy is a typical phenomenon “finyou siècle ". Its philosophy is the basis the acceptance that the world is certain its correct badly and to the fall. Political or social commitment, even the adherence to the civil standards are therefore not only senseless, but almost expression of smallcivil dazzlingness. For lack of Sinnhaftigkeit that turnsDandy of the form, the covering, itself too. A narzistische production to an avant-garde of the Dekadenz are therefore its expression means.

In the medicine the partial becomes somewhat weigh-ends and unloading course of swindle patients with reciprocal equilibrium loss in allusion in the alleged going way of homosexual men as“Dandy phenomenon” designates. A more modern form of the Dandytums is Camp (art).


  • of the Dandy is a man, whose status, work and existence in carrying clothes exist. He dedicates each fortune of his soul, his spirit, his purse and his person heroful to thatArt to carry its clothes well: While the others dress, live over to live it, in order to dress. - Thomas Carlyle in Sartor Resartus, 1834.

See also

to literature

  • Barbey D' Aurevilly: You dandysme et de George Brummell. Of Paris 1997
  • max of Beerbohm: Dandys. Select essays and narrations. Haffmans, Zurich 1989, ISBN 3-251-20072-0
  • Günter inheritance: Dandys - Virtuosen of the life art. Böhlau, 2002, ISBN 3-412-05602-2
  • Gerd stone (Hrsg.): Dandy - Snob - Flaneur. Dekadenz and Exzentrik. Social characters 19. and 20. Century. Bd2, FfM 1985
  • Gnüg, Hiltrud: Cult of cold weather. The classical Dandy in the mirror of the world literature, 1988, ISBN: 3-476-00641-7 (possibly. out of print)
  • Hermann ofPückler Muskau: Letters of a deceased. Island, Frankfurt/Main 1991, ISBN 3-458-32919-6
  • Hans's J. Schickedanz: Aesthetic rebellion and rebellious Ästheten. Long, Frankfurt/Main and. A. 2000, ISBN 3631357885
  • Oswald Viennese: A kind only one in: Literary essays. Vienna 1998

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