Derby (shoe)

a Derby designates classical shoe model, which is characterized by an open Schnürung in such a way specified and the Derbyschaftschnitt in such a way specified, which rest upon by the two lateral side parts coming from the heel seam the front part of the shank are held.

Classical Derby, frame-sewn with transverse cap (Grenson)
to Derbybogen and Derbyriegel

table of contents

historical

the Derby (in the English linguistic usage also Gibson, in the French Molière, and - falsely - in North America occasionally also Blucher mentioned) comes from the time 19 beginning. Century. The origin is not completely clear, but had one of the counts von Derby due to its high Fussrists of problems when locking its shoes. Thereupon by his shoemaker of these Schaftschnitt for its shoes one developed.

characteristic and demarcation

the Derby is not only a shoe basic model, but also and a straight special Schaftschnitt. And this Schaftschnitt is appropriate for many other shoe models to reason: One thinks for example of the Norwegian or the Budapester. Therefore generally linguistic usage is of the Derbyschnitt the speech often is, if an open Schnürung and two accomodation lying on the Vorderblatt are meant.

The external shank of the Derby consists of three parts: One Vorderblatt and two accomodation. As accomodation one marks the lateral shank parts beginning at the heel seam, those on the Vorderblatt ( front shank part of the shoe, which runs out into the tongue to the foot) to be sewn on in front and with the Derbyriegel in such a way specified (see illustration: the short piece of seam underneath the eye), an additional very short reinforcement seam, against tearing off become secured. For the two accomodation that is form typical the Derbybogen , the upward arc-shaped swung lower edge in the front section with the classical Derby.

The Derby leaves itself good by its model counterpart, which Oxford so mentioned defines, since this has a closed Schnürung.

The Derby should not be confounded with the Blücher, a shoe model that likewise an open Schnürung, but another Schaftschnitt has.

variants

the Derbybogen described above that the process of the lower front conclusion edge of the rear side parts (accomodation) is called can be different:

  • classical Derby: arc-shaped
  • Steilderby: more or less straight from bottom to top in a steep angle rising
  • Spitzderby: the front lower angle of the accomodation parts is pointed and forward arranged
  • Mokassinderby: The Vorderblatt (comparably a Mokassin) an additional employment part (sheet employment)

the Derby can unverziert (plain), with transverse cap (captoe) or with hole ornaments (Halfbrogue) and wing cap (Fullbrogue) to be manufactured. A Derby can be a Halbschuh or a boot (Derby boat).

practical characteristics and use

of the Derby does not apply in the comparison to the Oxford as a rather sporty, so elegant shoe model. The total effect and the possibilities of the clothe combination depend however on its design, the bed material, the upper leather color and possible ornament. High-quality (frame-sewn) unverzierte Derbys is to be combined both with Businesskleidung and with Jeans. The Derby is considered therefore also as the most versatile applicable shoe model.

The Schaftschnitt of the Derby is practical for humans with a high Fussrist, because the course caused by the Schnürung sets down at the shoe soil and the Schnürung can be opened altogether further. Simplifies also the entrance, in relation to a shoe model with closed Schürung (Oxford).

literature

  • Helge Sternke: Everything over gentleman Mr., Nicolai publishing house, Berlin, 2005, 550 S., 450 fig., ISBN 3-89479-252-3.

see also

Blücher, Norwegian shoe, shoes, shoe model, boot

 

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