the trousers are an article of clothing, which serves for veiling of gesäss, sex parts and legs. It is beside the dress and the skirt a leg dress. Trousers are divided in principle into two categories: Pants and upper trousers. So that the trousers better, can also a belt sit or suspenders to be used.
Table of contents
to kinds of trousers
different kinds from upper trousers are:
- after material
- after intended purpose
- after cut
there are impact trousers:
the kinds of trousers essentially differ on material and average. At the time of the conclusions of the Hosenbeine are trousers with or without impact toodifferentiate. For a more comfortable federation width there are trousers with federation folds. Trousers of different design are carried to different causes (Jean trousers for example in the everyday life, suit trousers usually with Bügelfalte to ceremonies or in the office, sport trousers to the sport, Strumpfhosen without additional leg clothing at home).
historythe man trousers
who the trousers invented, is unclearly. Conceivable forerunner of the trousers is the skirt, which was together-sewn in the step, in order to protect the legs against draft.
It is safe that the trousers already in the 1. Millenium v. Chr. of the Skythen, onecentralasiatic rider people, one used, also by Chinese and Mongols. Since trousers enclose each leg individually contrary to skirts, they are more practical for riding, in addition, for many other courses of motion, than skirts. Also they keep the legs and thus also the abdomen warmer. That thoseTrousers however to the status symbol for the man were tabuisiert and the skirt for men uncommonly, almost, are a European development since the outgoing Middle Ages (see however also Scotland).
Celts, Teuton and Sarmaten carried short trousers in the Bronzezeit named Brouche with leg binding. Around 750 v. Chr. took over the Teutons of other peoples the knöchellange trousers. To in 10. Century long trousers became in Europe both (among other thingsof Franconias) and Brouche, a kind pants, and Beinlinge (e.g. Fishing rod Saxonia) carried. In the 11. Century became generally accepted the latter. In 14. Century became the upper garb more briefly, covered often straight still the gesäss, and made so pants and socks visible. Center 15. Century the Strumpfhose arose , which became now the upper trousers. Later this closely fitting trousers reached 50 years only up to the knee, in addition socks were carried.
From the fly of the trousers introduced meanwhile developed end 15. Century the shame cap. Around 1550 came at the SpanishYard short trousers in mode, whose legs with bran or Rosshaar were spherically stuffed, the army bass drum in such a way specified. It was angenestelt to the Wams. To in 17. Century inside was it the European yard clothes for men. Spain created it off 1623. The simpleMan carried simple kneel for a long time trousers from Wollstoff. In Germany carried the citizens in the second half 16. Century a pumping or a Pluderhose, which had been taken over by the land farmhands.
in the following centurycalf for a long time straight tube trousers became generally accepted in Europe. The external seam zierten buttons, volumes or edgings. As höfische gentleman trousers against it close knee trousers were carried. The Oberschicht preferred 1655 to 1680 the Rhine count trousers, a kind skirt trousers. Afterwards the Culotte arose, to underKnee went and as far as the French revolution from all layers was carried, as höfische clothes still longer. It fitted very closely and was at the aristocracy from finest leotard material, under which actually nothing could be hidden. A contemporary noticed critically: “Adam was with a fig sheetimportantly more decently dressed. “There the French revolutionary no Culotte carried, but knöchellange straight trousers, received them to the surnames “Sansculottes” (“without Culotten”).
The new long trousers lost very soon the taste of the revolutionary and became societyable. While 1789 still one forbade to the Prussian government official, long trousersto carry to omit and the hair carry the Perücke briefly, appeared eight years later even the Prussian king Friedrich William III. in such trousers. And also the order of the Trinity college in Cambridge that student, those in the halls or the churchin the long Pantalons appeared, when were not present regarded, remained in the long run ineffective.
In the conventional Meier those were very body-stressed worked gentleman suit, with narrow waist. Thus some men turned into actually to tie itself similarly as the ladies. The counterpart to the Korsett was called baskischer belt. Around 1850 the buttoned Hosenschlitz is introduced. To 1860 the gentleman trousers were usually from bright materials with remarkable Karo or Streifenmuster. Afterwards the trousers were co-ordinated more dezenter and with the skirt (in former times the jacket was called in such a way). About 1895 became break hereditary ochers as wheel driving clothes popular. Afterthat 2. The Jeans also the European market conquered world war. In the last third 20. Century won finally the Strumpfhose as recently also of men (usually under the trousers carried) leg dress again more meaning.
The displacement of the man skirt went against the violent resistanceconservative circles. Since that 17. Century European men carry and spread only for trousers this custom in the course of the colonialism world-wide except for few exceptions. The idiom “the trousers developed wears” as synonym for “the command authority has”. The larger spreading thatTrousers accompany with progress the industrialization, since the two trousers parts connecting inside-seam can be implemented economically only with special sewing machines.
history of the woman Mrs.
1897 for European and American women were trousers taboo.Only in the middle 19. Century the female pants were introduced, which were open in the step and were called leg dress. The woman trousers movement went hand in hand with the Emanzipationsbewegung. the American Frauenrechtlerin Amelia Bloomer was one first, for reform clothes used itself and knöchellangefar trousers for women sketched, who were called after their Bloomers. In addition it carried a kneel-long dress.
For Radfahrerinnen trousers skirts and pumping trousers were responsible. That was end 19. Century still another taboo break. However already the fact that women rose at all on the wheel, infuriatedconservative circles, anyhow in Germany. In the magazine Viennese mode appeared 1896 a contribution of Otto Neumann Hofer over this phenomenon: Against the wheel driving the conservative spirit preferably rears up in Germany, which controls the population in her majority. (...) The most delicate question when wheel drivingthe ladies is undoubted the Costumefrage. It is correct that women can drive it to (...) also in usual road toilet two-wheeler however seem that the skirt is verurtheilt in addition, the leg dress to yield. (...) The American Radfahrerinnen held a Congress and on it decided, the maleTo assume Costume. The English Radfahrerinnen follow this example and in France disappear the female skirt also gradually after the Stahlrossen (...), the Parisiennes (...) let themselves even in the scarce, oh, often only all too-scarce Bicycle suit be seen public to drive without Bicycle (...).
AsAlternative ones arose wheel driving costumes, which had large similarity with the Bloomer clothes. The Belgian Radrennfahrerin and later female pilot Hélène Dutrieu dared than one of the few, at this time in knee trousers too radeln. 1900 ago it occurred that restaurants and hotel women in trousers the admissionrefused, and carrying trousers skirts without carried wheel was punished as offence against the public order.
Woman trousers for sporty activities made the beginning, it followed such as part of the work clothes. English mine female workers probably already carried in 18. Century trousers. The same applied to oyster Fischer inside more EuropeanCoastal regions. The artist Hugo Höppener, called Fidus, suggested a kind pair of overalls with pumping trousers around 1900 as female work clothes. At this time it could not intersperse with it, after 1914 was only established this clothes for Fabrikarbeiterinnnen.
Around 1910 sketched Paris designer soil for a long time Hosenrock - costumes as alternative to at that time fashionable Humpelrock, under it Paul Poiret. In the spring 1911 a number of elegant Parisiennes in these trousers dresses , which were called French Jupe Culotte , appeared when horse running in Auteuil, which provided for some eddies in the press. The modelsoften eastern inspired, usually very elegantly, and had either legs cut very far were or ended in a kind Pluderhose, which was held together over the Knöcheln. In Germany this fashion also Haremskleid was called. At least in Paris and also in London it became ofsome ladies carried, usually however only to social causes and rarely on the road. Into Berlin it came to people on runs and Verkehrsstaus, as soon as once a lady in the trousers dress emerged.
The culture historian Eugen Isolani stated 1911 that ever new dress mode does not excite such attentionhas, whereby he had forgotten however the American Bloomers: One pursues women, who dare it to let their skirt run out completely deeply above the feet into two parts of (...) so that one can hardly notice and trousers call this novelty, with spöttischem Gejohle upthe roads, so that the unfortunate Culotte Trägerinnen must flee itself into houses. And happened in metropolitan cities, whose inhabitant shanks it is accustomed that them some Extravaganz the mode is demonstrated (...).
And the caricaturists and Satiriker fell themselves with eagerness on the new fashion, althoughonly few it at all to carry dared. An example is the spöttische Hymnus to the Hosenrock, which appeared 1911 in the merry sheets: (...) Your cutter makes never more holidays! Sews each day a shock! Sells it in enormous series, sketch it from finest subjects,lends the best criteria to it, coats it with holden Mysterien! It tingles to me in the Arterien, the wonnige Hosenrock! Whether my wife wears one? Who asks that? I get the stick! (...) On a joke design in the same sheet a short-sighted older man says to oneWoman in the trousers dress:“I must make the old gentleman attentive on the fact that its dresses are guessed/advised in disorder.” Two years later had disappeared the trousers dresses practically from the scene.
The “trousers spell” was broken then with that 1. World war, as many women in a forced manner to the acquisition workwere. Factory hand inside pair of overalls, women in the public service carried a uniform with long trousers (in the winter). 1917 one equipped also the Mrs., which as male replacement in the railway service worked, with long leg dresses. The “auxiliary woman officials” received Joppe (jacket), trousers, lower jaws and cap, the female workers oneblouse-like jacket and trousers. It was the same clothes, which had before carried also the men within these ranges, it was thus not particularly manufactured. In the war this equipment was accepted easily as necessary; one regarded the woman trousers as a temporary feature.
But thoseWomen did not want to missen the trousers now any longer.More rapidly than one it to suspect could, due to the war the Sporthosentracht with working women succeeded, and it would be a thank-worth task to issue a Rundfrage to these women in order to hear, in which clothes herbetter feel, in the trousers or in the skirt. My personal experiences extend only to some railway Schaffner inside, which almost feel and only regret their service clothes as beglückend that they have the regulation to put on the road the annoying dress skirt on. And then I knowfrom the turn hour, whatever joy does not make it for us any longer young women, if we may move our legs ungefesselt. (Quotation from new woman clothes and woman Mrs., number 1/2, 1918)
in the 30's the far Marlene Dietrich trousers arose, became however only from some artistscarried. In 2. World war women in trousers, again working, were accepted. However a mistake is to be believed that the “skirt obligation” past was after 1945 finally. Many schools permitted girls into the 60's inside if necessary in the winter to wear trousers. At catholic Mädchenschulendress orders kept themselves still much longer. Only end of the 60's woman trousers were socially accepted, and the trousers suit for ladies came into mode. As “decently” this clothes in elevated circles were not considered therefore however yet. The gossip press of this time could again and again over a “trousers scandal”report. Thus to the singer Esther Ofarim 1966 the admission to the bar Hamburg Atlantic hotels in the trousers suit was refused. The actress Senta Berger was allowed to change 1969 in a noble designer suit not to the Dinner in a Londoner hotel, but had. In international luxury hotels the trousers prohibition appliedfor women still into the 1970er years. To 1970 were also in the Londoner Nobelkaufhaus Harrods behoste customers unwanted. And the CSU Bundestag vice-president at that time smelling pool of broadcasting corporations hunter threatened 1970, he becomes each delegate, who should dare it to appear in trousers for plenary session from the hall points.Today even the Kanzlerin comes in the trousers suit. What revolutionary development.
Meanwhile the trousers among the European women are further common as the skirt. The reverse man skirt movement against it inspires not yet the masses, but so far only a small fashionable avant-garde.
- it hasthe trousers painted fully = it fear someone
- has the trousers strammziehen = someone to punish
- the thing is into the trousers gone = it inclined went, has not folded
- on the trousers (the trousers soil) to sit down = industriously (v.a. mentally) its, efficiently work
- he(it) = it ( it) determined the trousers on, where it does not go long
- with sawed off trousers to stand there = something planning has folded and/or one became therefore reprimanded.
This therefore comes that in former times the children were dressed exclusively in short trousers. Therefore this idiom meansalso that the person, to who somewhat inclined went, how a child was reprimanded or it feels at least in such a way.
- Gundula Wolter: The packing of the male sex. An illustrated culture history of the trousers. Jonas publishing house, 1988
- Gundula Wolter: Trousers, womanlike. Culture history thatWoman trousers. Jonas publishing house, 1994
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