Shoe model

under shoe model one understands certain type about shoe, which differs by optical or functional characteristics from other types from shoes (and therefore other shoe models). If the visible characteristics (forms, materials) resemble themselves concern it the same shoe model, they differentiate between clearly from each other, concern it another shoe model. Usually these characteristics are limited to shoe upper section called shoe shank. Rarely also characteristics of the shoe soil are against each other consulted like the paragraph form or - height for the demarcation of different shoe models.

To table of contents

historical

all shoe models existing today going on a relatively small number of basic models back, of those most into 19. Century were developed. At this time those began to develop shoe mode regarding the number of available models and qualitative differences differentiated. In earlier epochs there were also already mode features within the range of the footwear (piked shoes, cow muzzle shoes), but were these relatively uniform for all groups of buyers and lasted over many decades. Only in 19. Century changed that increasingly: The first fashion journals arose, the industrielle shoe production created, in order to stand out against the hand-made shoes, new models or model variants and the Dandies of this time gave new trends. With the ladies the skirts became for the first time shorter, so that also the shoes moved strengthened into the field of vision. Improved manufacturing process as for example invisible reinforcement from steel for the shoe soil (steel joint feather/spring of Salvatore Ferragamo), new Gerbtechniken (Chromgerbung) and thus new possibilities of the leather colouring, developing one struck Couture and further developments led to up to then not known model variety.

different definitions and demarcations

gives different possibilities of defining and of dividing shoe types from each other. But that does not lead necessarily to an allocation according to shoe models. Thus for example simple distinctions are not sufficient into three basic models such as Sandale, Halbschuh and boot , in order to become fair that variety of different models.
Also an organization, oriented to culture-culture-historical criteria and the five basic models differentiated (Sandale, Mokassin or Opanke, boot, slipper and Halbschuh) seizes itself too briefly.
The organization into eight shoe model categories is likewise common: Pumps, Oxford, Sandale, boot, Mokassin, Loafer, buckle shoe and Clog.

The latter differentiation approaches the shoe model reality already substantially, although also it not annährend the number of really existing shoe models, to say nothing of whose sub-groups, seizes. The Katagorisierung actually turns out as very problematic in the professional world. Differentiates one for example according to the kind of shoe catch (Loafer, Monkstrap, Schürschuh) does not help in the long run not. Thus one will notice but concerns both with a Damenpumps, and with the Mokassin no catch in each case, it despite this same criterion entirely different shoe types. But unconsidered the different categorization attempts, agreement prevails regarding the definition of the respective shoe models. A rubber boot is always a rubber boot and a moving shoe always a moving shoe.

criteria

regards one the criteria those to the different models lead in such a way are this primarily distinctions in the shank range. Thus for example the presence of a shoe catch defines the slip shoes (Pumps, Loafer and Mokassin) of other models (tying shoes n, buckle shoes n etc.). Also soil characteristics for the distinction are rarely decisive (example: A slip shoe with paragraph is a Pumps or a Loafer, without paragraph a Mokassin).

geschlossene Schnürung = Oxford (Grenson)
closed Schnürung = Oxford (Grenson)
offene Schnürung = Derby (Grenson)
open Schnürung = Derby (Grenson)

by the example Oxford a classical gentleman shoe model, which is considered as the most elegant shoe model to the suit, is described:

  • Criterion Schnürung:
If it is a closed Schnürung in such a way specified is the shoe model a Oxford, it is an open Schnürung calls one the shoe model a Derby. The designation openly (or closed) does not have to do with a bound (or not bound) loop, but refers to the Schaftschnitt. - Comparisons the accompanying illustrations
  • criterion shank height (z. B. Pumps/Loafer, Halbschuh, Bootee, boot, Schaftstiefel etc.)
the same Schaftschnitt can for example a Oxfordhalbschuh or a Oxfordstiefel be, depending upon height (the one ends in the foot bend, the other one is at least überknöchelhoch)
  • criterion Schaftschnitt (number of the shank parts and their arrangement to each other)
exists the entire shoe external shank only from a piece of leather speaks one of the Wholecut or One piece a Oxford. At least the Voderteil is smoothly calls one this a smooth Oxford or with the technical term a Plain Oxford. Otherwise equal cut Captoe Oxford has however an additional transverse cap over the toes.
  • Criterion ornaments (hole ornaments - so-called. Broguing, shank partial edges, shoe decoration in form of the n metal applications etc.)
shows the Captoe Oxford specified above still another ornamentale hole ornament on the transverse cap, concerns it a Halfbrogue Oxford. There are however still further ornaments of the shank partial edges and are wing-like extended the transverse cap to the sides of the shoe (so-called. Wing cap) is it a Fullbrogue so mentioned Oxford. And it is enough to to the rear shank seam at the heel (heel seam) calls itself the shoe model Longwing.

one can paint itself easily that these differentiations can be still further led.

model examples


lady shoe models

of shoe models for women developed partially from man shoes (Pumps and D'Orsay). With the lady shoe a more feminine appearance is generally aimed at. This takes place by means of individual characteristics or a combination the same:

  • Shoe decoration (z. B. on the shank fastened zierende loops),
  • thinner belts (so-called. Riemchen, for example with Sandaletten contrary to the Sandalen planned for man feet),
  • higher paragraphs (so with the Pantolette contrary to the slipper thought for the man),
  • larger a choice of materials and color with the shanks (man shoes are predominantly black or brown and consist of leather),
  • shanks cut out further (the feet are more exposed than with the man shoe.)
  • the production on lady borders so mentioned, which orient themselves at the shape of the woman foot.

Special lady shoe models came strengthen end 19. Century up, when the skirts/dresses became shorter and permitted at all a view of the shoes. Well-known designers created new models and/or variants of it. Important international lady shoe designers and - manufacturers are among other things: Old master André Perugia, Manolo blowing NIC, Jimmy Choo, Prada, Roger Vivier, David Evins, Patrick Cox, Dave Little, Salvatore Ferragamo, Beth Levine.

Despite the appearing at first sight very large model variety, all lady models leave themselves on only few Grundtypen (for example: Pumps, Ballerinas, High Heeels, Peeptoes, Sandaletten, Mules, Slingpumps etc.) lead back. By the constantly changing fashion, which again and again individual details (sales levels, paragraph forms, point forms, breakups, shank heights etc.) of the lady shoes changes, appears those variety of the lady models more largely, than it is actual.

on the left of to individual shoe models

Ballerina, Balmoral, Blücher, Budapester, Chelsea boat, Clog, Derby, Espadrilles, flip-flop, Fullbrogue, George boat, Geta shoe, rubber boot, Gymnastiksandale, Haferlschuh, Halfbrogue, slipper, Holzschuh, Holzsandale, hut shoe, Jodhpur boot, Loafer, Longwing, Mokassin, Monkstrap, Norwegian, slipper, Sneaker, sport shoe, dance shoe, moving shoe

literature

  • Colin McDowell: Shoes - beauty, mode, fantasy. William Heyne publishing house, Munich, 1989, ISBN 3-453-03606-9
  • Angela Pattison, Nigel Cawthorne: Shoes. Fashions & Designs in 20. Century. Bassermann, Niedernhausen, 1998, 160 S., ISBN: 3-8094-0655-2
  • Helge Sternke: Everything over gentleman shoes. Nicolai publishing house, Berlin, 2006, 560 S., 450 fig., ISBN 3-89479-252-3.

see also

Broguing, Brogue, Loafer, design, Sandale, shoe, boot

 

  > German to English > de.wikipedia.org (Machine translated into English)