Graz

Coat of Arms Map
Coat of Arms of the City of Graz Map of Austria with the Position of Graz
General information
Federal State: Steiermark
Bezirk: Graz (Statutarstadt)
Area: 127.58 km²
Population:
240,278 (1 January, 2005)
305,000 including suburbs
Population density: 2,362/km²
Elevation: 353 m
Postal code: A-801x, A-802x, A-803x
A-804x, A-805x
Area code: +43 316
Location: 47°04′N 15°26′E
Community Identification Number: 60101
Address of the
City Hall:
Rathaus
A-8011 Graz
Website: http://www.graz.at
e-mail:
Politics
Mayor: Siegfried Nagl (ÖVP)
Map: Graz in Steiermark
Image:Karte Aut Stmk G.png
The Graz Schlossberg Clock Tower

Graz [graːts] (Slovenian: Gradec IPA: /gra.deʦ/), with a population of 300,000 (in 2005) is the second-largest city in Austria after Vienna and the capital of the federal state of Styria (Steiermark in German). It has a long tradition as a student city, with six Universities with over 40,000 students. Graz's "Old Town" is one of the best-preserved city centers in Central Europe, and was recently included in the UNESCO list of World Cultural Heritage Sites. In 2003 Graz was named Cultural Capital of Europe.

Contents

Geography

The city is situated on the Mur river, in the southeast of Austria. It is approximately 2.5 hours south of Vienna by train or 2 hours by car. Graz is the capital and largest city in Styria, a beautiful and heavily forested area. The city itself is surrounded by low hills on 3 sides, thus making it predisposed to haze in the warmer months.

History

Graz was originally the site of a Roman fort. Later a small castle was built here by the Slovenians, which in time became a heavily defended fortification. 'Gradec' literally means "small castle" in Slovenian. The German name 'Graz' was first used in 1128, and during this time dukes under Babenberg rule made the town into an important commercial center. Later Graz came under the rule of the Habsburgs, and in 1281 gained special privileges from King Ruldoph I.

In the 14th century Graz became the city of residence of the Inner Austrian line of the Habsburgs. The royalty lived in the Schlossberg castle and from there ruled Styria, Carinthia, and parts of today's Italy and Slovenia (Carniola, Gorizia and Gradisca). In the 16th century, the city's design and planning was primarily controlled by Italian Renaissance architects and artists. One of the most famous buildings built in this style is the Landhaus. It was designed by Domenico dell'Allio, and was used by the local rulers as a governmental headquarters.

Karl-Franzens Universität, also referred to as the University of Graz, is the city's oldest university, founded in 1585 by Archduke Charles II. For most of its existence it was controlled by the Catholic church, and was closed in 1782 by Joseph II in an attempt to gain state control over educational institutions. Joseph II transformed it into a lyceum where civil servants and medical personnel were trained. In 1827 it was re-instituted as a university by Emperor Franz I, thus gaining the name 'Karl-Franzens Universität,' meaning 'Charles-Francis University.' Over 30,000 students currently study at this university.

Nikola Tesla studied electrical engineering at the Polytechnic in Graz in 1875. Nobel Laureate Otto Loewi taught at the University of Graz from 1909 until 1938. Johannes Kepler was a professor of mathematics at the University of Graz. Erwin Schrödinger was briefly chancellor of the University of Graz in 1936.

Adolf Hitler was given a warm welcome when he visited in 1938, the year Austria was anexed by Nazi Germany. The thriving Jewish community was destroyed by the Nazis and their grand synagoge was burnt. A small group of Graz Jews returned despite everything after the war. In 2000 on the anniversary of the Reichskristallnacht Graz city council presented the Jewish community with a new synagogue as a gesture of reconciliation. Hitler promised the people of Graz 1,000 years of prosperity and an end to mass unemployment: only 7 years later the Graz resistance surrendered the city to Soviet troops sparing Graz any further destruction. By then about 16% of buildings had been destroyed by Allied bombing - luckily the Old Town was not seriously hit.

Graz lies in Styria, or Steiermark in German. Mark is an old German word indicating a large area of land used as a defensive border, in which the peasantry are taught how to organize and fight in the case of an invasion. With a strategic location at the head of the open and fertile Mur valley, Graz was often assaulted (unsuccessfully), e.g. by the Hungarians under Matthias Corvinus in 1481, and by the Ottoman Turks in 1529 and 1532. The Schloßberg was the only fortification in the region that never fell to the Ottoman Turks. Graz is home to the region's provincial armory, which is the world's largest historical collection of weaponry. It has been preserved since 1551, and displays over 30,000 items.

From the earlier part of the 15th century Graz was the residence of the younger branch of the Habsburgs, which succeeded to the imperial throne in 1619 in the person of Emperor Ferdinand II, who moved the capital to Vienna. New fortifications were constructed on the Schlossberg at the end of the 16th century. Napoleon's army occupied Graz in 1797. In 1809 the city had to withstand another assault by the French army. During the course of this attack, the commanding officer in the fortress was ordered to defend it with his men against Napoleon's army, which numbered about 900 and 3,000 respectively. He successfully defended the Schlossberg against 8 attacks, but they were forced to give up since the Grande Armee conquered Vienna and the Emperor ordered to surrender. The fortress of Graz is seen as the strongest fortress ever built. Following the defeat of Austria by Napoleonic forces at the Battle of Wagram in 1809, the fortifications were demolished using explosives, as stipulated in the Peace of Schönbrunn of the same year. The belltower and the civic clock tower, often used as the symbol of Graz, were allowed to survive this fate after the people of Graz paid a ransom for their preservation.

Archduke Charles II of Inner Austria had 20,000 Protestant books burned in the square of what is now a mental hospital, and succeeded in returning Styria to the authority of Rome. Archduke Franz Ferdinand was born in Graz, in what is now the Stadtmuseum (city museum).

Attractions

View of Graz including the Kunsthaus.
View of Graz including the Kunsthaus.

In the last few years some groundbreakingly modern new public buildings have been erected in the city. The most famous of these include the "Kunsthaus" (house of modern art) designed by Peter Cook (architect) and Colin Fournier, a museum constructed right next to the river Mur, and the "Murinsel" (island in the Mur), an island made of steel, situated in the river. It was designed by the American architect Vito Acconci and contains a cafe, an open-air theatre and a playground.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS IN THE OLD TOWN:

  • Schlossberg - hill dominating the old town, site of demolished fortress, views down onto Graz
  • Uhrturm - clocktower, symbol of Graz
  • Neue Gallerie - museum of art
  • Schlossbergbahn - funicular railway up the Schlossberg
  • Landeszeughaus - armoury, largest of its kind in the world
  • Schauspielhaus - principal theatre
  • Opera
  • Landhaus - Renaissance government building
  • Dom - cathedral
  • Mausoleum
  • Rathaus - city hall
  • Burg - castle, with gothic double staircase
  • Gemaltes Haus - "painted house" in the Herrengasse
  • Kunsthaus - museum of modern art
  • Murinsel - island in the Mur
  • Buildings, courtyards and roofscape of the old town. Since 1999 the old town centre of Graz has been listed as World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE THE OLDTOWN:

  • Schloss Eggenberg - palace on the western edge of Graz. State rooms and museum
  • Basilika Mariatrost - late Baroque gem, on the eastern edge of Graz
  • Herz Jesu Kirche - largest church in Graz with 3rd highest spire in Austria
  • Best viewpoints for vistas of the city: Ruine Gösting - hilltop castle ruins on northwestern edge of city; Plabutsch - behind Schloss Eggenberg with hilltop restaurant

During the year 2003 Graz had the title of "Cultural capital of Europe".

Many festivals take place throughout the year such as the "Styriarte", "Steirischer Herbst", "Jazz Sommer", "La Strada" or "Classics in the City". Some of these events can be visited for free.

Transportation

An extensive public transportation network makes Graz an easy city to navigate without a car. The city features a tram network consisting of 8 lines, 2 of which run from the train station to the city center before branching out. 1 hour or 24 hour tickets can be bought on trams for €1.70 and €3.50 respectively (as of December 2005), but longer-term tickets must be bought at the train station or on Jakominiplatz. The city also has a comprehensive bus network that uses the same integrated ticketing as the tram system. (These tickets are also valid on the Schlossberg funicular railway and lift.) Furthermore there are 7 nightbus routes which run only on weekends and on evenings preceeding public holidays.

From the train station, one can take regional trains to most of Styria. Direct trains also run to most major nearby cities including Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Maribor in Slovenia, Zagreb in Croatia, Prague in the Czech Republic and Budapest in Hungary. Trains for Vienna leave every hour.

Graz airport is about 10km from the city centre to the south and has a railway station within walking distance. The main international destinations from Graz are: London, Paris, Berlin, Zürich, Amsterdam, Oslo, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Stuttgart and Düsseldorf.

Sister Cities

These include:

Famous Grazer

  • Arnold Schwarzenegger, former bodybuilding champion, actor and currently governor of California. Born and raised in farming village called Thal, 2km from Graz. In 2005, the Graz football stadium named after Schwarzenegger was renamed Stadion Graz-Liebenau after a controversy over the use of the death penalty in California.
  • Olga Neuwirth, one of the most important contemporary Austrian composers.
  • Nicolaus Harnoncourt, conductor known throughout the world for his performances of classical works on period instruments , was raised in Graz having been born in Berlin.
  • Jochen Rind, first Austrian Formula 1 champion was raised in Graz by his grandmother.

External links

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